Mood Chillin
The lifestyle magazine for slow, high living

The Last Room in Mindo

Woman on a rainy cloud-forest balcony glancing back at a man in the doorway
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I’ve never told anyone this, not even my sister, who tells me everything. Maybe that’s why I’m writing it to strangers. Some secrets only feel safe in the dark.

I went to Mindo alone that October because my life in Guayaquil had become a list of things other people needed from me. I wanted hummingbirds, chocolate and a bed nobody else got to have an opinion about. I booked two nights in a cabin up a muddy road, with a veranda over the cloud forest and walls you could hear the rain through.

He was on the same afternoon bird walk. Tall, quiet, a heavy camera and a lens like a telescope. He didn’t talk the whole time, and I liked that. At one point a toucan landed so close that I gasped, and he lowered his camera, looked at me instead of the bird, and smiled as if I were the rarer sighting. I felt it all the way down.

The road

By five the sky had gone the colour of wet slate. By six the guide was on the phone, frowning. A landslide had come down across the road below town. No buses up or down, nothing until morning at the earliest.

Foggy mountain road blocked by a landslide near Mindo
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He had been planning to drive back to Quito that night. Now he was standing at the lodge desk, dripping, while the owner apologized. Every room was taken except mine, which had two beds.

I heard myself say it before I’d decided to. “There’s a second bed in mine.”

He turned. He had dark eyes, rain in his eyelashes, and a look that asked whether I knew what I was offering. I didn’t look away. I wanted him to see that I did.

The rule

We ate dinner at the lodge, trout and hot chocolate so thick you could stand a spoon in it. The power flickered twice. We talked about everything except ourselves. When he started to tell me his name, I put my fingers lightly against his lips.

“Don’t,” I said. “No names. Not tonight.”

He was quiet for a long moment. Then he wrapped his hand around my wrist, gently, and moved my fingers away from his mouth. “Then what do I call you?”

Two hands almost touching beside a camera and hot chocolate
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“Nothing. Just tell me what you’d do.”

Something changed in his face. “Here? Now?”

“Here. Now. But you can’t touch me. Not yet.”

I don’t know where that woman came from. Maybe she’d been waiting under the to-do lists for years.

The longest hour

So he told me. Across that little wooden table, with the rain hammering the tin roof and the candle doing its best, he leaned in and told me in a low voice exactly how slowly he would take his time with me. Where he would start. How long he would make me wait. What he’d noticed on the trail that afternoon: the mud on my calves, the way I’d tucked my hair behind my ear when the toucan landed, the second my breath caught.

“You’re blushing,” he said.

“Keep going.”

“You want me to stop?”

“No,” I said. “I want you to make me ask.”

The couple at the next table paid and left. The waiter blew out the candles one by one and stopped looking at us. I’d stopped noticing anything except his voice and the heat climbing my throat. My knee found his under the table, and he didn’t move. He just watched me, patient as a man with a camera waiting for something rare to land.

“Ask me,” he said finally.

And I did.

The rain

The path back to the cabin was ten metres long, and we were soaked before we’d gone halfway. On the veranda he finally touched me, just his knuckles along my jaw, so lightly I wasn’t sure it had happened. Then he did it again, and I was sure.

“Last chance to tell me your name,” he whispered against my temple.

“Last chance to stop asking.”

He laughed, low, and that was the end of anybody being polite.

After that I remember it the way you remember a storm from inside a house: in flashes. The lantern swinging on its hook. My wet shirt landing somewhere it shouldn’t have. The second bed, which neither of us ever used. Rain so loud it swallowed every sound I made, which was lucky, because I made several. His voice saying look at me and me doing it. Trust, and then losing all sense of time.

Morning

I woke at dawn to a hummingbird buzzing at the feeder outside the open door, and to the sound of the road crew’s machines far below. He was already dressed, sitting on the edge of the bed, watching me the way he had watched that toucan.

“The road’s open,” he said.

“I know.”

He leaned down and kissed me once, slowly, a full stop at the end of a sentence. He picked up his camera, and at the door he turned back.

“You never told me your name.”

“I know,” I said, and smiled. “That’s why you’ll remember me.”

He left without telling me his, either. I took the afternoon bus home through a valley that had been washed brand new. Sometimes, when it rains hard in Guayaquil, I open the window and let it be loud.


Names and identifying details changed. Reader stories may be edited and dramatized.

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